I agree with the original poster, but that it is somewhere in between this “fault” reported. The overall total gain structure has to be set, and of course it involves at least 3-4 different buttons depending. The gain structure must be set to that there’s unity gain all across. First you have to:
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Turn the input on your physical audio interface to NOT clip at all at the strongest hit picks (full chord). This can take a while as it behaves differently between different guitars, and different pickups of the same guitar. If you have single coil pickups, take care of the single coil 50-60 Hz hum in the background which can screw up the interpretation in the MIDI interface.
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Then on the Interface tab inside MIDI Guitar 2 there’s yet another input/gain button you have to make sure it barely goes into the orange area. Set that accordingly too, which can take a while.
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Before moving further, you have to set the Noise Gate button which can come handy bucking 50-60 Hz hum and background noise, such as finger noises scratches, open resonating strings “rumbling” around.
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Then you go to the MIDI panel where you have to set a) gain b) tone c) curve. 3 individual buttons and these have to be set accordingly and only to your personal playing techniques. This is how the MIDI response will trigger different synthesizers and plugins.
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Then you have to set the total gain, master volume all after that too, but it hasn’t go anything to do with tracking really.
If you still have problems, it can be numerous things. Stray RF noises creeping into your cables, hum inducing single coil pickups, and the pickups not being that close to the strings to pick up a strong magnetic signal but pickups up everything else too. You have to have a clean picking attack and a honed in skill of dampening the other strings you’re not playing. It took myself quite a while to get to this. As I have detected, it dawned to me slowly that hollow body guitars, and acoustics are more prone to “ringing” and resonating notes that are not played, and are often as loud as deliberate notes, and thus, cause the Midi Guitar to misfire or doubletrigger. Solid body guitars works best with humbuckers of some hotter output, but not too hot. Fret buzz that you really can’t hear, can be picked up by the system anyway, so make sure you have a pretty decent setup action wise. Too.
As far as the 8th notes, yes, this is a liability too, and I use MIDI guitar for slow pads or sound that gets into the background. No “fast attack” instruments like Piano, Vibraphones, Marimbas will do. Especiall those will misfire, and mistrigger more often than not. New strings makes stray upper harmonics causing MIDI guitar to misfire and double trigger too. Very light gauge strings are more prone o this, than very thick gague strings. But with thick gauge strings you can’t bend properly.
As you have read, it’s a lot of effort, unwieldy thing, before it works, but when it works, it’s pretty decent. But to say “it just works” is a tad overhyping it. It doesn’t just works. I do occasionally have to use a hair / wrap band (!?) that girls use to shove their pony tails through, to dampen the open strings. Instead of having to buy those über expensive Fret-Wraps that dampens the strings at the nut. Mine I have just gotten for free, and if you have to buy it’s within 1-2 dollars.
To make a real stab, I am one of the few who thought the 1.0 verison of Midi Guitar had the better triggering system, by far. It wasn’t as sensitive to stray undampened notes. It took a while to set the sensitivity for all notes individually, but once set, that one…just worked.
